A Little Jaunt to Burgundy

March 3, 2020

Filed in: Field Guide

The thick Burgundian fog sits low in the fields, rows and rows of vines quickly disappearing as the train speeds by. Sunlight cuts through in a gentle haze.

As quickly as it comes, it dissipates, sunshine full-force through the windows, cutting harsh shadows across our faces. It is warm, dashing hope across the landscape dotted with homes, villages impossibly small, and trees in varying states of undress. Spring comes earlier to some than others.

The streets here are narrow, charmingly disorderly, built when there was abundant land, and no one needed to think about grids and economising space. Facades, though darling, seem at times to tip dangerously, giving the buildings crooked smiles. The shingled roofs make up for it (but do nothing to ensure structural sound-ness), gleaming gold, maroon, green, and other colours and in many patterns. A signature of the region, they cause gasps of delight by turning up around unexpected corners.

Visiting Burgundy: Dijon & Beaune

Eat: (I forgot to note some other places and no longer recall names.)

La Petite Reine – 4 rue Vauban, 21000 Dijon

Le Fils à Maman – 38 rue Amiral Roussin, 21000 Dijon (reservation needed)

La Causerie des Mondes – 16 rue Vauban, 21000 Dijon (get the Chai)

Do:

Musée des Beaux Arts de Dijon – 1 rue Rameau 21000 Dijon

Tour Philippe le Bon (great views, must reserve through the tourist office; can be done day-of. 5€) – Place des Ducs de Bourgogne, 21000 Dijon

Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse – 1 Avenue Albert 1er, 21000 Dijon

Jardin Darcy – Place Darcy, 21000 Dijon

Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne – 17 rue Sainte-Anne, 21000 Dijon

Musée de l’Hôtel-Dieu – rue de l’Hôtel Dieu, 21200 Beaune (Don’t miss Rogier van der Weyden’s triptych of the last judgement.)

Musée des Beaux Arts de Beaune – Porte Marie de Bourgogne, Boulevard Perpreuil, 6 rue Poterne, 21200 Beaune

The Cook’s Atelier – 43 rue de Lorraine, 21200 Beaune

Ramparts (Easy to find and follow, will take you around the city with nice views.)

Above all, I’d encourage you to just walk! My friend and I just wandered around, enjoying the architecture and ambiance of both cities, stopping where we wanted. La beauté dans le quotidien!

 

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Paris strolls; looking for the best croissant; plenty of flowers; stories; and other adventures. I hope you'll come along and see my Paris!

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